California - Cambria to Death Valley
02/19/2008 to 02/25/2008
Cambria, California is one of those picture perfect coastal towns. During our California 2005 trip we made an impromptu visit here to see Hearst Castle when we got snowed out of Kings and Sequoia National Parks. So when our friends wanted to go there we jumped at the chance to go back.
This time we stayed a couple days and had a chance to see the elephant seals, take the upstairs Castle tour, and enjoyed the area despite the cold and rain. Then it was on to Santa Barbara for more tourist fun before heading back east through Death Valley.
02/19/2008
A little piece of Americana in Apple Valley, CA. Sometime in the 1970's an enterprising soul wanted to make a miniature golf course populated with dinosaurs. Sadly the plan seems to have fizzled but some of the creations still stand. I'm sure some folks would think this little side trip a waste of time, but we loved it and would stop by again if we are driving that way.
This is one of the first sights you have as you drive down the road
It's almost as if they are wading through some waist deep pond
It is a bit weird since the old golf course sits in a lot adjacent to occupied homes
02/20/2008
We arrived in Cambria in late afternoon and after checking into the hotel we took a drive down the road to see the elephant seals. These animals are really large when you see them in person, and quite vocal. Males, females and pups of various ages all lumped together. Quite a site.
The amorous couple
This guys was just lying out on some grass in another section of the beach
Heading back into the water
A couple of bathing beauties. Just like any other California beach
Coming out of the water. This takes a while because dragging all that weight onto dry land is tiring and they rest frequently
Those brown blobs are all elephant seals catching some rays
Lots of noise from this guy
More bodies in the sand
Boy did these guys keep busy. If effort counts for anything this guys gets a medal
Isn't she a cutie?
Even the ladies had some tussles
These two were just talking away
02/21/2008
We really enjoyed this tour more than the first one. The man was amazing in his drive to collect pieces of art, ceilings, furniture and tapestries from Europe. You could easily have a tour just for the tapestries.
There are so many things to see you could get whiplash and with the low lighting it's a bit hard to get a full appreciation of many of the pieces.
Yes, it's a bit gaudy and not a place I would really like to live but I am glad Mr. Hearst had the time and money to acquire such a great collection.
The Neptune Pool
Reminds you of a courtyard in Italy
There are many statues in the garden. I think this is Diana the Huntress
The closet door in this room is ornately carved and has a history of it's own
Hearst collected many images of Madonna and Child, although he was not Catholic
One of the many guest rooms
This ceiling is amazing. The deep wood inlays, rich carvings and artwork are beautiful. Purchased from Europe
The portrait is of Mr. Hearst's grandmother. She is quite formidable
Another amazing ceiling purchased from Europe and installed here in the library. It is covered with paintings of medieval scenes
More of Hearst's private library
The bridal suite is in Moroccan motif
Another inlayed ceiling with a message for the couple
There is an open walkway along part of the upper level and the view is amazing, when there's no clouds that is
Doesn't everyone have gold plated rooster shaped faucets in their kitchen?
The kitchen is large and well equipped. Hearst treated all his staff with courtesy and respect and believed in paying well
The Roman Pool. Naturally you need one indoor as well as one outdoor
02/22/2008
We bid goodbye to Cambria and headed south toward Santa Barbara with a side trip to Morro Bay to look for otters. We lucked out and found a small group with a mother and baby. These are the first wild otters we have ever seen and we had a blast watching them bobbing in the surf, eating and doing all those cute otter things.
Morro Rock
The harbor and boats at anchor. As you can see we had more clouds
The waves breaking over the quay were really impressive
3 in a row
You can never get enough otters. That brown fur to the right is her baby
I just love that face
Fat little tummy
Mommy and baby
That's the baby on Mom's tummy
OK, lots of oohs and aahs for the "little" baby Mommy is holding
Yup, that's the baby and Mom looks like she's sinking
This little guy and his friends were running around the rocks as we were taking photos of the otters so we took his picture as well
More wildlife?? No, it's our friends
I wish we could have gotten a shot of the waves at their height. They were huge and very noisy
02/22/2008
Mission Santa Barbara was founded in 1786 as the tenth of the California missions established by the Spanish Franciscans to bring Christianity to the Chumash Indians who lived in the area. The interior has some unique colors and designs which might reflect the culture of the area but we don't know. However the cemetery is truely unique. The feeling is more of a stroll through a garden than a walk with the dead.
The front of the Mission
The front and the alter
The medallions on the ceiling around the light chains were not what you expect in a Catholic church
A closeup of the ceiling medallions around the light chains
The original alter still exists in a side alcove
The chapel door that leads out to the cemetery. Note the 3 skull and crossed bones. The Spanish used these to denote cemeteries (no pirates involved)
This huge fig tree is in the cemetery. All in all it's more like a botanical gardens than a place for the dead
The wall of crypts
Graves and tombs are nestled around the cemetery amongst the shrubs and trees
More of that botanical gardens feel here
02/22/2008
It's not often a restaurant warrants a page unto itself in our travels but this is an exception.
First it has a history. Second getting there on the windy roads can make your passenger nervous. Third, the food is really, really good.
When George found it we thought it was just going to be fun and quaint serving chicken, burgers and BBQ. However when we checked the menu before heading up the mountain we were amazed. Chicken with almond-raisin stuffing, sauteed breast of duck with roasted shallot demi-glace and rack of venison with cranberry-cabernet demi-glace. WOW.
The parking lot to the side is a bit cramped. We were early and backed in or else I don't know how we would have gotten out
At one time a Chinese work gang was housed here
This is the restaurant. Hard to believe such great food in such a small place
Paula & Sharon outside the store
02/23/2008
This was a little side trip on our way out of Santa Barbara. If you are not careful you will miss the little sign and shallow pull off that give access to the site. Since we couldn't see through the gate well we just snapped a bunch of pictures and hoped for the best.
A short walk up the hill brings you to the entrance
They did put some larger holes in the gate to take pictures through
They have some good colors on these
Abe Lincoln?
02/24/2008
At the intersections of highways 127 & 90 in Death Valley Junction sits The Amargosa Opera House (and hotel). We have driven this way on several occasions and always wondered just what this was, so today we stopped in before going into Death Valley.
This is an active Opera House with shows since 1968 with or without an audience. Marta Becket painted all the murals which is quite an accomplishment considering Ms Becket is now in her 80's and much of the work was done in her 60's and 70's. More Americana.
The Amargosa Hotel
Classic Drama & Comedy masks
Dedication Plaque
The ceiling medallion Marta painted lying on her back on scaffolding
Marta decided to surround her audience with medieval characters
You just can not believe all the "people" painted on these walls
Acrobats, rowdy crowds, fancy dress, it's all there
Note the Indian juggler in the lower right and the nuns in the upper left
And Vikings. Can't leave them out
The royal court above and center
The sheer number of characters and scenes is amazing
All the colors are vibrant even in just poor lighting and a flash
02/24/2008
As we drove into Death Valley we started looking for things we had not done on our previous trips, and there was a lot. Our first little stop was the 20 Mule Team Canyon which takes you past several areas that were mined long ago, including this one.
Believe it or not this is an old mine. Note the little sign on the right
Danger; Unstable Explosives; Cave-ins; Deadly Gas and Lack of Oxygen. To George this is a big welcome sign
So with all that invite he crawls inside a ways while I stand outside contemplating cave rescue techniques
OK, so he didn't go in far and he came out just fine
02/24/2008
I wish the light had been better when we hiked through this canyon. Our pictures do not do the colors and texture of the rock justice. It's not a long hike, nor difficult, but it is very pretty. The formations are quite unique to this particular canyon and the mosaic effect is prominent although you can't tell it from these shots.
I'm in this to give a sense of scale for the marble walles of the canyon
The stones below are full of embedded pebbles and sediment
Almost like a flowstone
The rock in the lower right is a good example of the "mosaic" effect
02/24/2008
It was getting near dusk as we drove by the Sand Dunes on our way to Stovepipe Wells. After mines and canyons this was a pleasant change of venue. The wind was blowing rather briskly and there was a light layer of sand blowing along the surface of the dunes giving it a rather life-like look. It's a very serene area and since we didn't make it to the highest dune we can always use that as an excuse to go back.
Looking out toward the hightest dune
In some areas there were these ridges of rock sticking out like the backbone of a dinosaur
The wind creates tidal effects in the sand
The little "fuzzy" outline is blowing sand
Ah, reminds me of scaling gypsum dunes in White Sands
This area was a hard, dried bed
02/25/2008
Rhyolite is just off Route 374 a bit outside the park near Beatty, Nevada. It was founded in 1904 after a couple miners hit what looked like a rich vein of gold. The population grew quickly to over 10,000, had electricity by 1907, and was a ghost town by 1916. What's left are some great shells of mostly concrete buildings plus the 2 room bordello and Tom Kelly's bottle house.
The Cook Bank was 3 stories and cost $90,000.00 to build
Cook Bank as you enter the town
Pretty amazing for the middle of nowhere
Australian Tom Kelly built his house in 1906 from available materials. He was 76
Naturally the 2 room brothel still stands
Harold Porter General Store - or what's left of it
The jail
Well, at least one sturdy door still stands on the jail
Rhyolie Mercantile
The sign says Historical Mercantile Store for sale and the numbers to call for appointment. Now that's optimism
The Overbury Bank. Not as grand as the Cook Bank but look at that safe house still standing
The Las Vegas & Tonapah Depot
The Depot is in pretty good shape and the fence keeps it that way
The Rhyolite School. It cost $20,000.00 to build
The school is just an empty shell
02/25/2008
Getting to Leadfield is a bit tricky. Heading back into the park from Rhyolite you take the one-way dirt road that goes west from 374. This is an unpaved road that eventually meanders over the mountains often rough, narrow, and unnerving for those with a fear of heights. The town is about 15 miles in and there isn't much left except some metal building shells, a couple closed mines and lots of tailings. We loved it.
This pretty much says it all. Schemes, salted ore, boom & bust in a year's time
Not much left but some old, rusted buildings
There are a couple boarded up mines in the side of the hills
The mine has a grate over it but you can see into it pretty well
As you can see it's pretty but empty country
Up on a hill looking back toward where we were
Heading up a path to another mine site and another rusted building
Another mine - well actually it's a shute that's welded shut
See, that's a welded door
Peeking through that little round opening in the welded door
Looks like an old ore sifting table
02/25/2008
Heading on west from Leadfield you go through Titus Canyon. This was a truely amazing route. The canyon walls are so high, the quiet is complete, and the formations and colors are perfect. rn
You actually don't get to this sign until you are well into the canyon
Looking back down on the road in
The super highway. At least there aren't any rocks and deep ruts on this section
Entering the deep canyon
Just a really great rock with great layers and uplifting
We saw these rather large caves in the hillside
Checking them out was fun, until I realized there was a lot of poop in that opening and I had no idea what made it
The truck helps give some scale to the height of these canyon walls