GoFools


London & Other English Towns 2024

09/12/2024 to 09/30/2024

We wanted to do some areas around London for a while, so now is as good a time as any.

We based ourselves in London and utilized their wonderful transport system to get around.

The Tube - our favorite means of travel within the city.

To reach other towns, the trains are the best. They run so often, go everywhere, and are just so easy to use




London - Down Street Tube Station 09/12/2024

Yes, another underground tour of a defunct tube station.

This one was little used as a station, but in 1939 the London Passenger Transport Board engineers resturctured it to function as a bunker for Winston Churchill and the War Cabinet during WW II.

They added dorms, bathrooms, meeting rooms, etc.

The movement of troops, equipment, and other goods was coordinated from here.

It features all the things we have come to look for on these British Transport tours - Leslie Greene tile, natty signs, and history



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The station in classic Leslie Green ox-blood red.
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First decent.
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And of course, more winding stairs
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Signs were necessary - it was a maze down here until you got used to it
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This tunnel was converted to one of the meeting rooms. You can see a picture of it in the lower right
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Part of an air shaft
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Bathroom sink
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The halls were just wide enough for a tea cart - a necessity
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Fuse box
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Kitchen sink - yes there was a kitchen because people would be down here for days or weeks at a time
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Leslie Greene tile
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Some of the tunnels are still used for storing
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A toilet
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And a tub
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The horrible yellow was supposed to be canary yellow to cheer folks up




London - Westminster Abbey 09/13/2024

The abbey was built in 1066, but the one we see today was built in 1245. Lots of history.

The abbey is burial site for numerous kings, generals, nobility, etc. There is also Poets Corner where writers, poets and people of science are interned.

We probably took over 100 pictures, but I'll try to just post a few (dozen) of the most interesting.



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Battle of Britain window - 1947
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Garter robes on Knights of the Garter
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Anne Duchess of Somerset
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Captain Sir Edward Cooke
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Christ & St. Thomas and Christopher & child. Rediscovered in 1934
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Duke of Argyle
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John Lord Russell
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Elizabeth Russell - John Russel's Daughter
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Frances Sidney, Countess of Sussex
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Gabriel Goodman Dean of Westminster 1561-1601
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Geoffrey Chaucer
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George Hendel
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Isaac Newton
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Jane & Edward Talbot, 8h Earl of Shrewsbury
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Lady Elizabeth & Joseph Nightengale
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Lady Elizabeth Fane
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Mildred, Lady Burghley and her daughter Anne Countess of Oxford
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Darwins Tomb
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Stephen Hawking's tomb
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Major General James Wolfe
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Henry Longfellow - yes there's a yank there
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Bronte plaque in Poets Corner
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James, Tennyson, Eliot and more
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Wordsworth, Austin & Johnson
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Shakespear's Tomb




The Drop Redoubt - Dover UK 09/15/2024

A redoubt is a fortified area to which defenders can retreat.

So, why Drop you may ask. Well, it is a take on the local nickname for the remains of a Roman lighthouse on the site, known as the "Devil's Drop of Mortar"

The initial build was 1804, expanded in 1859. Both were in response to a possible invasion at Dover - the gateway to England.

It was active into the mid 1960s.

It has infrequent tours given by the Western Heights Preservation Society - all volunteers.



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The entrance
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Yes, large ditch around the forts. Locals walk their dogs here
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These were originally barracks in the 1800s
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Some big defensive builds
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Going into the forts lower areas
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The Western Preservation group has done a lot of work to clear out decades of debris and do some reconstruction
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View of Dover from the redoubt. That's Dover Castle over there.
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Dover Harbor
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What's left of the Roman lighthouse. It ws destroyed to build the fort
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But the remains show the typical pink Roman cement




Dover - The Grand Shaft 09/15/2024

With troops up on a hill, and the port of Dover at the bottom of that high hill, the concern was troop movement. Takes quite a while for a thousand men to walk down the trail of chalk that can be slippery when wet.

So, fort engineer Twiss suggested a shaft. Brilliant idea.

It goes 140 feet down and the time to get troops to the port was cut to under 15 minutes.

In later years it was mainly the fastest way for soldiers to get from the pub to their barracks before curfew.



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Top entrance to the Grand Shaft. There are 3 staircases
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Looking toward the bottom - see a couple people down there
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Naturally, winding stairs
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The stairs are in the outer shaft
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The inner shaft allows in light and air
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It feels somewhere between a palace and a prison
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The gate on Snargate Street. I just had to get Snargate in - love that name




Dover - Town and White Cliffs 09/15/2024

Just some various shots of Dover, the port and the famous white cliffs.



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Dover Castle - toured it in 2018
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Walking along the cliffs
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Yes, they really are white
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Street scenes
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Loved this - actually points to the harbor. Guess you should walk to Rome?
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Port of Dover.
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And quite lovely
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Snargate Street - where the Grand Shaft has an exit-entrance
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Vera Lynn was a singer famous for all those lovely songs about White Cliffs and WWII patriotic songs




Dover - Fan Bay Deep Shelter 09/16/2024

Churchill ordered fortification and gun implacements along the Cliffs of Dover and the Royal Engineers finished these in 3 months.

Designed as quarters and shelter for the gunners, they were mostly lined with corregated steel and bunks hung from the walls. Little or no ventilation, these are dark, wet, horrible places but men were obviously a lot tougher than I am.

They were sealed up and buried in the 1970s but the National Trust uncovered and cleared them out in 2012.



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Decending into the tunnels
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Picture tiered bunks hung from the walls. You can not see the water drops all over the ceiling and walls, or feel the cold damp - but we sure did.
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That ventilation shaft was added so tourists don't pass out.
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As always men carved their names in the walls
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Or did art work A stick figure
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A face carved into the chalk wall
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More graffiti
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Not all tunnels were lined, but they were all used Very narrow and a bit low
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That is a line of flint. Flint deposits are all over dover, and a main reason early man settled here. Makes great arrow heads
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Just some trash preserved for viewing
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The sound mirrors from WWI. Early form of radar
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They still provided some additional warnings in WWII




Dover - Langdon Stairs - White Cliffs 09/16/2024

The path down to the rather steep set of stairs is narrow and winding, probably slick when it rains, but fun and well worth the trek.

Beautiful views of Langon Bay as you descend into the tunnel that opens onto the landing for the stairs.

It is thought the trail was made by smugglers in older times, and also used by the coastguard in more recent days.

If you have a fear of heights, just don't look down, but climb the steps to land on a nice, secluded little beach.

Then, of course, there is the trek back up the trail, but exercise is good for you.



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There are about 6 segments to the trail down
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That is flint imbedded in the chalk wall. It is everywhere
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The tunnel is the last section before the landing
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The door - yes it can be shut so no access
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The stairs
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Like I said, don't look down if you are afraid of heights
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It is a small beach, and typically covered in stones
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It is a small beach, and typically covered in stones
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Looking up that is the landing to the tunnel
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Back up the stairs




Dover - South Foreland Lighthouse 09/16/2024

Near the end of the trail along the White Cliffs of Dover is the South Foreland Lighthouse. This area has some treacherous shoals knowns as The Goodwin Sands, that have wrecked hundreds of ships, so a lighthouse on this point made sense.

Built in 1843 it has a long history, including where Marconi tested his wireless communication system that enabled ship-to-shore messages.

The place is lovely, and the tour is a lot of fun.



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Souh Foreland Lighthouse
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Yes, it was a bit windy
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Nice views, even from the base of the lighthouse
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Inside, some of the equipment
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Stairs, always stairs
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The light
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Short treads and steep angles - easy
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Lovely views from the top of the tower
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That's St. Margaret, where we will walk to get dinner and a pint.
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The Coastguard Pub in St Margaret's Bay




Cambridge - Various Sites 09/18/2024

Took the train from Dover and headed into Cambridge.

Yes, the place where all the colleges are located, where Darwin, Newton, Turing, Hawking and others went.

The town is quite busy, lots of young people, lots of bikes, and a great feeling.

Just some of the interesting places and sites we enjoyed.



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Lots of nice little streets to explore
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Outdoor cafes
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And a scaffolding company. So, first love the name. Second, scaffolding is everywhere in England
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The Corpus Clock
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Unveiled in 2008, the inscription basically reminds us time is fleeting




Cambridge - The Round Church 09/18/2024

The official name is Church of the Holy Sepulchre.

Built in the 1100s, the style was meant to reflect the Holy Sepulchre in Jerusalem which was taken by the Crusaders.

It has seen a few renovations in it's time, but the basic church is still there.



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Interior arches
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Victorian tiles
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A lovely dome ceiling
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The altar
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Wooden Angels - added in 1500s
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Its a bit hard but you can see the face
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These faces were added by the renovators in the 1840s
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Probably the faces of the stonemasons who did the work, and carved to resemble medieval counterparts
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Beautiful ceiling




Cambridge - Eagle Pub - Home to RAF & DNA 09/18/2024

Built in the 1700s it was originally called The Eagle and Child.

During WWII, RAF pilots gathered in the back bar area to hoist a few. One night a pilot stood on a table and using a candle or lighter burned his squadron number into the ceiling.

Naturally, this set a trend.

Apparently it was hidden in subsequent renovations but uncovered in the 1990s.

This is also the place where in 1953 James Watson and Francis Crick announced they had discovered "the secret of life" with their proposal for the structure of DNA.

Amazing what good ale can do







Cambridge - Great St. Marys Church 09/18/2024

This is the church of Cambridge University since 1209.

It is possible the first foundation was laid sometime in 1010, but it did burn in 1290 and was rebuilt in 1478 as the church we see today.



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Ya, it got a bit steep going up.
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Bell ringing mechanism
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Out on the roof
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Some lovely views




Cambridge University - St. Johns College 09/18/2024

OK, so we were confused about the system at the university, and our punter explained it. Thought it was a good intro to St. Johns College pictures.

In brief, Cambridge University is the overall umbrella that provides the resources, sets curriculum, etc.

Within the University are many colleges. Students can apply to a specific college or be assigned to one by the University if they choose open application.

So, Cambridge University is Hogwarts and the various colleges are the Houses.

Think Harry Potter minus the sorting hat.



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The Gate
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New court
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Love the fan vault ceilings
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Chapel
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Inside the chapel
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One of the gates
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You get whiplash trying to see everything Like a whole series of these amazing ceiling tiles
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Henry VIII - the Tudor endowment funded the college
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The Tudor rose and the Tudor emblam




Cambridge University - Kings College Chapel 09/18/2024

Kings is probably the most recognizable of all the colleges, mainly thanks to movies.

The original college was started by King Henry VI, but then the War of the Roses happened and the Tudors won and new plans were made under the Tudors.

Yes, it has had quite a few expansions and renovations over the centuries, but still has an excellent academic reputation



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Porters Lounge
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Another great fan vault ceiling
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Gonville and Caius College Gate of Honor
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Choir stalls
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Choir stalls
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Just a very nice door
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George and the Dragon
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Great Hall
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Madonna and another amazing ceiling
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The Organ
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The dark panel divider is called a Rood Screen. Rood Screens separate the nave from the chancel
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Henry VIII commissioned this to honor his marriage to Anne Boleyn 1532. Such a nice guy.




Cambridge - Punting Down the Cam River 09/18/2024

If you go to Cambridge you have to go punting down the Cam. Kind of like a gondola in Venice but these have flat bottoms and flat ends, but the poling is similar.

Originally punts moved goods down and up the river. Today they move tourists.

Many of the punters are students at Cambridge, or soon to be students.

You laze down the river as you learn about the history of each college, bridge or historic site you pass.



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Our punter on a punt.
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The Bridge of Sighs built in 1831
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Named after the Bridge of Sighs in Venice
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Named after the Bridge of Sighs in Venice
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Some sites along the river
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Ducks
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That red is Boston Ivy
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Garrett Hostel Bridge
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Kings College
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Wren Bridge - aka Kitchen Bridge. So called because students had to cross it from Buttery Dining Room across the river.
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Mathematical Bridge
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The red-brick building on the right is the riverside building built around 1460. It is the oldest building on the river at Cambridge
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Our Punter
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Punts and Magdalene Bridge in the background
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Trinity Bridge
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Swans




Arundel Castle 09/21/2024

A short train ride from London is Arundel Castle, home to Edward Fitzalan-Howard, 18th Duke of Norfolk, his wife the Duchess of Norfolk and their family.

Dating from the 11th century it has played a major role in English history.

The Duke is also The Earl Marshall of England, a position the family has had for 500 years.

It is quite worth the trip if you enjoy history, and the docents are quite informative and fun to talk with.



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Visator Entrance
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Looks just like you expect a castle to look
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Typical motte-and-bailey style with huge mound and a keep
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Barbicon Gate
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Love the old wooden doors
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One of the public rooms with a unique fireplace. And Armorment as art
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There are several sets of armour
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Another great wooden door
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Dining room.
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Another public room and another wonderful fireplace
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The Great Hall
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What can you say - a lion skin on the floor
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One more fireplace
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In the great hall is a beautiful chest
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Many of the works of art are displayed in the Great Hall
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This is a clock
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Library
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Fireplace in the Sitting Room
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Sitting Room - remember this is actually the family home.
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One of the guest bedrooms
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Nice fireplace in one of the guest baths
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Inside the guest areas - one of the bathrooms for a bedroom
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Beautiful hall with portraits of past Dukes
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Another guest bedroom
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Another bathroom for a guestroom
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A toilet




Arundel Castle Gardens 09/21/2024

The gardens attached to the Castle are very interesting and worth the stroll.

One of the funniest parts is the artsy display of dead tree stumps.

There is a little of everything, from formal to natural, and a nice little side to the castle tour.



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The stumpery
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A whole new use for tree stumps
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Looking for hobbits here




Arundel Castle Keep 09/21/2024

The Keep is the oldest part of the castle, dating back to the origins back in the 11th century.

As usual, there's a narrow, winding stair up to the top, with several levels open for viewing along the way.

It is a nice little glimpse into what life was like centuries ago living in a castle - defense is not just for football.



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The Keep on the motte
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Cross the bridge and up the stairs to the keep
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Guardroom
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Raising the portcullis
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Another room on another level
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The well
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Up on top
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The ramparts
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Some views of the castle surround




London - Crossness Pumping Station 09/22/2024

No surprise, in the 1800s folks just dumped sewage into the Thames with all the expected consequences.

There were calls for something to be done, but Parliment dragged its heals until The Great Stink in the summer of 1858.

The odor was so bad no one, even the wealthy, could escape it.

Suddenly it was a rush to fix the problem, and Sir Joseph Bazalgette came up with a proposal to move the sewage closer to the ocean.

Part of the solution was 2 pumping stations. Crossness was one of these.

Engineering moved on and the pumping stations were decomissioned in the mid 20th century,

Thankfully someone thought they were imporant so began the effort to restore Crossness.

Beauty and egineering in one spot



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An old double decker picks up visitors in Abbey Wood - the nearby town
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Next is a short trip on a nice old restored train to the pumping station
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The Crossness Pumping Station
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Cute entrance, through a sewer comlete with a mouse at George's feet. Not a real sewer of course
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And not a real mouse
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Edward and Albert Steam Pumps - restored
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A flywheel - restored
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Cogs - not restored yet
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A great beam that is not restored yet
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A restored Great Beam
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There are still areas that will be refurbished in the future
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Prince Consort Steam Engine
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Pumps - wating for restoration
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Naturally a winding stair
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The Vestibule. They just do not make them like this any longer. Works of art
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Looking down into the vestibule from the upper platform
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The Fatberg - they made a fake monster to highlight a real 130 ton rock solid monster of fat clogging the London sewer in 2017
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The Fatberg and toilet display are in the cafeteria - of course
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There are a couple outbuildings. One is a showcase of some of the pump engines from the past.
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The Stewart Engine
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The workshop is not for show. They rebuild and restore the parts here. Dedicated volunteers
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A hobbing machine - it makes cogs. An army of volunteers and craftmen work on Crossness.




Flywheel turning great beam.
Great beam in action!
Pumps in action
Hobbing machine working




Hastings - Battlefield & Battle Abbey 09/24/2024

So, 1066. The year that William the Bastard came over from France and defeated King Harold and took England for the Normans.

In penance for all the blood shed William built an abbey on the site where the battle took place.

Supposedly the site of the high altar was where King Herald died.

The original abbey was virtually destroyed by King Henry VIII when he went after Catholic holdings.

What was saved is now the Battle Abbey School.

It is a bit odd to be standing in a shell of a monks dorm and look out to see an intact large building with active students.

Ah, England



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Entrance to Abbey Grounds
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The Abbey Shcool - yes it is quite active and there were lots of young folks
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Even the ruins are imposing
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Battle Coat of Arms
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Always have to show those winding stairs
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Up on the Ramparts - the Gatehouse
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George as a 11th century warrior - well at least the helmet. It was really heavy
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Looking down from the ramparts. A little surreal - bones of an old abbey and vibrant school full of life
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Abbey
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What was the common room in the original abbey
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Love the arches
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Out on the battlefiled You can see the skeletal remains of the abbey
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Hard to believe so much blood was spilled
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Lots of sheep grazing on the battlefields
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I loved the arrows stuck in the tree
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I thought these were a great way to depict the stature and armorment of the men who fought
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Icehouse - no not from Williams time
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Undercrofts
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Dairy House
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Crypt




Bodiam Castle 09/25/2024

One of our side trips out to the surrounds.

Bodiam Castle is what you think of when you think of a castle. Tall towers, a drawbridge and a moat.

Long, rich, tumultous history starting in late 1300s and passing through various families.

It finally was dismantled when it was sold to pay fines to Parliament because the owner took the wrong side in the 1641 Civil War.

Side note - it had 30 toilets!!



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Walking toward the castle is a reminder that no place was safe in WWII. A blockhouse
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Sometime in the 1970s carp and koi were donated to the castle.
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They thrive on their own. No one feeds them
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Crossing the bridge to the castle
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A great portcullis over the entrance
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Inside the courtyard
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Of course, stairs
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Views from above
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There are colonies of bats that roost in the towers
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Interior rooms - some have been nicely decorated to give a feel for how people lived then
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It was a home with comfort as well as a castle
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One of the restored toilets




Hastings - Around the Town 09/26/2024

Naturally we had to add a bit about the actual town of Hastings - not just its name for the battle between William and Herald.

There is a lot of history - there was already a settlement here when the Romans came.

Some of the more fun adventures of Hastings are - storm destruction, burnings, attacks, more burnings during wars with France, huge smuggling enterprise for centuries, gotten restored a few times, and is now a lovely town and a great place to vacation along the shore



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There are several rather high hills that surround the town
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Looking down into town and the port
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Probably a very pricey place to live
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But the views are lovely
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They have a Funicular! Takes you to the top
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Looking down the funicular tunnel
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Up on one of the hills is Hasting Castle - well the ruins anyway
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William had a fortification built here when he landed in 1066
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Later it was built of stone. But between storms, erosion, neglect and a few German bombings it is a shell fo its former self
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Into any visit a little schlock must enter
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Although it is a bit over the top, there is some good information about the history of the town and it's place in smuggling history
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The caves have been carved into rooms with columns over the centuries
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That's Napolean
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And an alien I guess
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Some guy - there is a story behind it but it was just weird
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See what I meant by schlock
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No idea what ASPRO is
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Or Colonel Bunk Haffrey
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I do recognize Churchill




London - Royal National Theatre 09/27/2024

We have never cared for the building itself, but it is a big part of London and is a major influence in theatre.

Putting our distain for the architecture aside, we could not pass up a free backstage tour.

It is like a small city and factory rolled into one. Pretty amazing



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The theatre. In 1988 Prince Charles said it was a clever way of building a nuclear power station in the middle of London without anyone objecting
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Queen Elizabeth was a big theatre fan.
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Inside there have been a few tweeks to help with sound
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Backstage - this is what is called Drum Road
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Set pieces, construction equipment, anthing needed to create the scenes
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Nice that they put Drum Road on the floor
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Lawrence Olivier was a huge catalyst in getting the new theatre going so the largest stage is named for him
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He loved purple. Only theatre to have purple seats
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Lots of activity
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Creepy baby
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A construction for a scenic piece.
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Looks like metal but it is all wood
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Prepping a floor for a new play.
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Attention to detail. Probably no one will see under that shelf but she is painting it anyway
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On the balcony
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Views are wonderful




London - Piccadilly Circus Tube Station Tour 09/27/2024

Yes, another Hidden London tube tour. We are addicted.

From the classic Leslie Greene oxblood tile facade to the equally classic tiles in the closed tunnels, it is so much history in a little place.



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Entering Piccadilly
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Inside it is a circular station. Full of shops as well
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Down into the tunnel
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Now our guide has collected us and we are in the old, disused part of the station
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Directions to the lift. All tubes had lifts until they started putting in escelators to move people faster.
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Frank Pick designed the famous logo. So simple yet so easy to spot
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They use the closed off stations for storage of equipment and supplies
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W. B. Simpson & Son still make tiles for the subway systems




London - Little Venice 09/28/2024

Last time we were here we did GO Boats - rent a little putput and tool down the canal lined with amazing canal barges that once carried cargo but now are homes.

Some are amazing works of art, some not so much.

As we walked along there were trikes, little tables, toys and interesting pieces of the people whose homes were moored there.



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The kitty was quite friendly. Seemed well fed too
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On one side are these huge homes
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On the other side are the canal barge homes
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Feng Shang Chinese Restaurant. And Kayakers
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A bit of the walkway
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Loved this - the name on the storage box along the path
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Camden Lock - it was a hopping place this weekend




London - Kensal Green Cemetery and Catacombs 09/28/2024

The oldest public burial grounds and the first of the “Magnificent Seven” Victorian garden cemeteries built in the suburbs of London in the 19th century.

Some of the headstones are so old you can not read them, others made of better material are still fresh.



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Imposing entrance
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I guess the ground sinks
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Not sure if a plant was put on top or one just grew and had to be cut down
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Headless saint
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New and old
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In the oldest part the headstones are moss covered and nameless
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Must be this specific area that makes vegetation grown on top of headstones
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Looks like Whomping Willow or an Ent




Windsor Castle 09/30/2024

The weather is a bit, well, English today. Damp, misty rain, and a little on the chilly side. Perfect day to do the famous Windsor Castle.

This turned out to be a great choice, to our surprise.

No, King Charles was not here, although it is said he now enjoys going there.

Oh, and no photos allowed inside.



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Our first glimpse as we come up to the castle entrance.
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Quite substantial, but then any castle worth its salt has nice towers
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The Entrance
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Interesting streets inside
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I found it so interesting. They are quite different in height
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But their steps were in sync
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Different braid denotes rank
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Looking around the grounds
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St. Georges Chapel