We have wanted to see Machu Picchu (MP) for years - us and a few hundred thousand other people - so when the opportunity arose we jumped for it.
The main focus was Machu Picchu, but what we found along the way was also great.
Getting to MP is not a straight shot. You fly to Lima, take a one hour flight to Cusco where you take a train to Aguas Calientes and catch a bus up to MP.
Lima can rival any city in Europe for architecture, churches, museums and cuisine. Our friend Gustavo asked one of his friends Fernando to act as guide, and we could not have had a nicer, sweeter, more informative companion.
On to Cusco, a thriving city that is a destination of it's own.
Next is a nice 3 and a half hour train ride to Aguas Caliente – a small town struggling to accommodate thousands of tourists and doing it with efficiency and humor.
Finally a 20 minute bus ride and you are standing in awe in Machu Picchu. WOW was the most overworked word in my vocabulary, but the one that probably says the most about all we saw.
The most astounding things is how much has changed in Peru in such a short time.
A few decades ago Peru was struggling between violent gangs and terrorists added to a corrupt government. Fast forward to today and you can really appreciate how far they have come. A very determined people.
Lima is pretty amazing. Fernando's family has lived in Lima for many generations so he is very familiar with the city, its history and its attractions. He took us to many areas to see the sites so I'm trying to gather a flavor of what we saw.
This is an old city with a long, rich history and very interesting architecture.
One of my favorite things were the enclosed balconies on the front of many buildings. They add a touch of elegance even on busy streets.
Also, right in the middle of Miraflores district is Huaca Pucllana, a pre-Incan pyramid of adobe bricks. It's huge! And it is amazing to be so intact after all these centuries.
Just a street in Lima
In the courtyard of one of the ministry buildings.
There are lots of these enclosed balconies
Outside, looking down toward the St Peters Cathedral
The Lima Cathedral. It is quite lovely but you can not take pictures inside.
The Plaza de Armas
As you can see it is surrounded by very ornate buildings from the old Spanish days
The Changing of the Guard at the Government building.
This was the day for the Air Force. Each branch gets a day to do this
I love close order drill, and many women wear uniforms in Peru, from military to police
Just another building with those great colors and balconies
This is The Ministry of Education building. We think it is pretty spectacular.
Huaca Picllana. We did not do the tour but we ate at the amazing restaurant at the base.
Just a little different. When you walk in you see this Peruvian hairless. Yes, he is quite real
The pyramid - much of it is in tact
Look closely and you can see the individual adobe bricks
Lima - Ocean Front Park and Barranco District 05/13/2017
One of the most impressive things about Lima are plethora of parks. They have made sure green spaces are accessible and abundant in all neighborhoods.
Not far from our hotel was the Maria Reiche Park. Ms. Reiche spent a lifetime studying the Nazca Lines, and the park is in homage to her.
After we strolled around the park we went down the coast to the Barranco District. This district is known for it's lively night life, lots of little cafes, bars and restaurants.
We were there rather early. True to their European heritage nothing really gets going until after 8:00pm.
Later that evening we strolled in the Maria Reiche Park which pays respect to the work she did on the Nazca Lines.
The park is along the coast - although quite a ways up in elevation.
Beach front has an entirely different meaning here. More like northern California than Florida
That's us
The park has plant replicas of some of the Nazca Line symbols.
As you can see they encourage family time and the city is extending the parks all along the beach. Lots of construction
Lovely coastline
Now in Barranco District
Iglesia la Ermita de Barranco.
The roof is under repair. Yes, those are vultures sitting on the roof
That area in the corner was built by Fernando's relative, a very pious woman.
Lots of small cafes with outdoor seating
Sitting with Peruvian Presidents. A restaurant has this display in the foyer. Silly, but fun.
These are in one of the parks in Barranco.
La Santisima Cruz church
As you can see it is quite different from St. Peter's. Much less ornate.
Lima - Churches and Museum of Central Reserve 05/13/2017
We covered a lot of territory, and since this is a city with Catholic history it included churches.
Some churches do not allow photography, but there were a few that did, so we tried to capture a little of the different flair in those we visited.
We also visited the Museum of Central Reserve where many of the Inca gold artifacts are displayed, along with some pottery.
Oh, so much to see and so little time.
St. Peter's Church. Completed in 1638. It is in what is known as the historic center of Lima and is a UNESCO site.
As you can see it is quite spectacular
One of the domes
Fernando and me
Lots of gold leaf
The main altar
One of the side altars
Another side altar. No idea who the saint is.
They have a spectacular silver altar. Silver was quite abundant in Peru
San Francisco Monastery - also in historic center and a UNESCO site. Completed in 1774
The design inside reminded me of a Mooris style
Looking up at the dome
And this is on your right when you enter
There is a lot of intricate plaster work
Outside on the plaza with the pigeons. Lots of pigeons.
The Museum of Central Reserve
The ceiling in the foyer. I just thought it was interesting
Inside there is a large display of gold artifacts
Ceremonial masks
Knife for sacrifice. Yes, the Inca did human sacrifice just not on the scale of the Mayans it seems
Earrings - large earrings
I liked the vault. Made in Chicago.
There are many animal figurines, some with gold, many just ceramic
A Quipu - to keep records and communicate information such as dates, statistics, accounts, and even represent, in abstract form, key episodes from traditional folk stories an
This holds liquid in one side and when it tilts it whistles. No idea why, but there is one on display that moves and whistles
Lima - Magic Water Fountains 05/13/2017
In Parque de la Reseva - another one of those amazing public parks all around the city - they made a huge investment into 13 fountains.
Now, you might say "so what" to a bunch of fountains but all of these are different.
Most will have changing colors and some you can even play in, like the Fountain of Children. People of all ages come and play in the fountain, then go into the changing room to put on their dry clothes.
The climax of each night is an incredible fountain show to music. I do believe no one can do drama quite like Peruvians. I recorded most of the show, so do try to watch.
Hopefully the video will load and give you a little idea fo what the show was like.
WOW - a word I used often in Peru.
Fuenta de la Vida
Peter, George and Fernando in front of the Magic Fountain
Magic Fountain
Fuente de la Armonia
George - and yes it was a wet lens since the fountains are quite active
Fountain of Illusion
Constantly changing colors.
Source of Traditions
Rainbow Fountain
Yes, aptly named
Ah, the Fountain of Children. Lots of people were splashing in it
Looked like a lot of fun, and very well used
Tanguis Fountain. No idea what Tanguis means
But it too changed colors
Now, this is the Fantasia Fountain.
It's the largest - covers a lot of water
As you can see the display varies a great deal
As do the colors
When the show started all sorts of laser lights and music
Fountain dancing to the music
You really need to try to watch the video - really dramatic
I liked the teapot topiary fountain. Just some whimsy
This is the Tunnel of Surprises
Yup, that's water flowing over you. I shot a brief video so you can get some idea of what it was like inside
Cusco - or Cuzco - Capital of The Inca Empire 05/14/2017
Cusco, a town we did not spend enough time exploring. Who knew Cusco is pretty interesting. It is from here you take the train up to Aquas Caliente at the base of Machu Picchu. In Inca culture, and still somewhat true today, the seat of power and those with money live in town and the poorer up on the hills. Got a couple great shots of those hillside abodes. Amazingly the old Inca walls have stood solid through hundreds of earthquakes - can not say the same for more "modern" works.
This is a great place to walk and eat. Lots of good restaurants - and some American chains like KFC. We were amused.
Anyway, here are some shots of the town. Believe me, I did pare the number down but the place was just too good not to keep taking pictures of. Really, really want to go back.
Cusco from the surrounding hillside
Yes, they have a stadium
As you can see the hillside is covered with homes, most just barely together
And the poor go up and down stairs
Lots of stairs. You have to be tough to live up here. One day it will all get gentrified and the rich will live up here
Hillside homes
The Plaza de Armas. Please notice how clean it is
The plaza has the Basilica of the Assumption of the Virgin - known as The Cathedral
Cathedral and square
The Cathedral is on the left and Church of Society of Jesus is to the right
Livia and I walking around the Plaza
La Compania - or The Church of Society of Jesus.
Competing factions within the Catholic Church
Each built it's own church
The Jesuite one has a great dome in the back. No pictures of the inside however.
Snake "sculpture" in one of the parks
Dog - tons of dogs all over the place. Some belong to people but most don't although they are fed by locals
The covered arch walkway is part of our hotel - The Marriott.
Another Inca wall with a building on top.
I do not know what the building was originally but now it holds a North Face store and a great bake shop - La Valeriana
Peter & I outside the restaurant. Streets vendors are everywhere, although not pushy like the Gypsies in Europe and they do not pick your pockets
La Merced - church and convent of Our Lady of Mercy- Founded in 1539. Note the person sitting at the base of the wall to the right.
La Merced is on the Plazoleta Espinar in the historic city center.
La Merced - they do love substantial doors along with substantial walls
The courtyard in La Merced is the only place you can take pictures.
The blue color is a traditional Spanish color
Great balconies everywhere
More balconies
And people use them! We did not get into the Pub - really want to.
The KFC in Cusco. Looks so much like the one near you right?
Statue of Pachacuti in the Plaza. He was the greatest builder of the Incan Emperors
Just one of the many courtyards.
Notice the lack of trash strewn around. There are little bags left to be picked up
Steep streets. I can only say they must all take really good care of their brakes.
For a price you can pose with them - or one of the hundreds just like them. Hey, it's a living
San Blas area. This is street is sometimes called the Inca Road
The substantial lower half is Inca wall
Lots of UP in San Blas area, and yes there are cars on this street . Imagine this at rush hour, packed with cars and people
And artsy doors with artsy shops
Lots of stairs as well as streets
More clean streets. Believe it or not they have people cleaning all day. Amazing
Some of the wiring is artistic - how it all works we do not know.
The biginning of rush hour. Lots of passion in their driving, along with horns.
Notice most of the cars have extra reflective stickers just below side windows.
Sacsayhuaman is one of 4 ancient Inca sites that are quite near Cusco. In fact, if you are in good shape and have time you can walk to them. Since we have neither time nor that lung capacity, we had a great guide - Victor Hugo Torres Saravia - and transport
The original buildings were constructed by the Killke , the people who lived here before the Inca came around 1100. The Inca expanded on the site and built a very large complex with staggered entrance - presumably for easy defense- huge walls and large capacity for storage and defense.
The Inca were not so much warriors - although they did have large armies - but rather did deals in usurping local peoples. New information I did not know.
One of the latest theories is this was a major storage facility for Cusco. Remember, Cusco was where the wealthy lived. They did not labor or farm, so a fortified depot so near seems logical.
Alpaca grazing
You see Alpaca and Llama everywhere
The first glimpse after entering the site
Looking back at Cusco.
There has been some attempts at stabilizing so some smaler stones are not original
There were 3 terraces, each having only one door. This is the first
Note the corner stones
Victor is pointing out a rather crucial section, curved corner stones off-set. This stabilizes the wall in earthquakes
One huge stone.
I think this is the largest. 11 feet tall and weighing something like 300 tons.
Some local color. If you want a picture with them and their alpacas it costs you.
Victor explaining something. He was quite well informed and passionate about his culture.
On top you can see what is left of one of the towers
George, Sharon, Livia & Peter
These terraces and stairs are another area just across the "yard"
I do not remember what this section was. Too much to learn in a short time
Another terrace and another door.
Stairs. Lots of stairs. Inca had really great leg muscles
Another one of the numerous buildings constructed under the great Emperor Pachacuti. The name references the red rock used. Numerous theories have been proffered.
The traditional information indicate that when the Inca was preparing to visit the Baths of Tambomachay, the formidable retinue of soldiers, dancers and others stayed in was Pukapukara quarter and inn.
The first fort along the road to Cusco - a good place to keep an eye on the area because of it's position. The fact it is built of smaller stones with less refinement suggests it was not a place of reverence for the king or holy men. Like social classes, the stone work reflected the class living in the facility.
Regardless it is quite interesting, and we thought it was worth the stop.
A child and his alpaca.
Looking down at the valley. You can see it is still active farm land
Even though this is a lesser site the masonry is still quite impressive
The nice thing is the government is still funding digs, so more information is coming yearly
Up early. Another day another set of old Inca towns.
First stop is Pisac. Today there is a small active town of Pisac in the valley famed for it's market, but we were more interested in the ruins than shopping.
So hiking up the road we come to the ruins of Pisac.
Before the Spanish destroyed it and moved any survivors into the valley, the town had various districts.
There is the military area of Q'alla Q'asa, the bizarre cocoon tombs of T'antana Marka, the urban district of Qantus Raccay, the Inca baths and the residential area of Pisaqa.
I was glad we came early because by the time we were ready to leave there were dozens of tour buses lining the road.
That is where we're walking to.
Not sure you can see it but some walls are being braced
They sure knew how to pick sites.
Terraces. Lots of terraces
People still use this area. Look closely at the make-shift bridges they have put across the water
Just to give you some idea of the height of these terraces.
All done by hand
Looking down into the present town of Pisac
And the tombs. Every class was mummified
The poorer classes were placed in caves like these
They have found thousands
What is left of the fountains and bath
Ah, yes. The intrepid explorers
It just blows my mind how much earth the ancients moved by hand - no draft animals
The amount of rock and stonework is amazing to me
They believed in drainage. Way ahead of Europeans of the time
Look at the road. Those white things are tour buses. And this is only a small portion.
One of the rooms. Naturally the thatched roof is new
Ollantaytambo is really 2 places. The town itself is - I think - the only in-tact Incan town still standing. The ruins above it are what remain of one of Pachacuti's royal estates.
After conquering the region he rebuilt the town with sumptuous constructions and undertook extensive works of terracing and irrigation in the Urubamba Valley.
After the Spanish invasion it was also the last stronghold for Inca Manco Yupanqui, leader of the Inca resistance at the time.
Again, a magnificent stonework.
On the square of Ollantaytambo
Lots of local folks
Walking through the streets
An older gentleman carrying a bundle of straw. Sturdy people
Love the doors
Notice the stonework
And of course the dog. Dogs are everywhere here and in Cusco.
The perfect mode of transport for these streets
An original street in Ollantaytambo. It is the most in-tact Inca town still standing.
One of the "tired stones". So named by the locals because they believed they were too tired to make it to their final destination
The Wall of Six Monoliths
Look at those stone rivets. To date no one knows how or why
Fountains
More fountains
Looking down on the market and town
If you look very closely at the mountain you can make out a face - looks almost Nordic.
The Inca believed it was the face of Wiracocha, god of creation who would return. So, when the fair skinned spanish came it fit right into their beliefs. Too bad for them
That light brown blob is actually storage units
Lots of different configurations and sizes. Same as in Inca times
Ok, remember your previous lesson about stone work in Inca society. These are large, smooth and fitted with no motor
Indication this is for nobility. See, this is educational
Moray is totally different than anything we have seen so far.
Think "American Test Kitchen" but with an agricultural flair.
Yes, these were used to evaluate crops and farming methods.
Each ring is a small micro-climate varying in temperature by somewhere between 50 and 60 degree, mimicking the same temperatures at sea level to terraced lands at higher sites
So crops that liked it warmer were in one ring while the higher rings held other crops. Rather ingenious.
There's a little walk down`
Then you see the depression.
Apparently the stones served some purpose, so they have been reintroduced
The setting is beautiful
A look at the walls of the terrace
And some clouds moving into the region.
Those protrusions are called Inca steps. Yes, they do work quite well
These salt pools have been in production since around the 1400s. They are fed by a salt rich underground stream. The water is funneled into an intricate system of channels that lets the water flow slowly into the ponds
Although there does not seem to be any written history it appears they have been tended by families who pass them along to the next generation.
Workers monitor the flow of water and divert it when needed. The evaporation ponds are harvested at different times to produce different salts. If I remember correctly the first layer of salt is less pure and used for animals. The next harvest layer is less dark and used for bath salts - these are apparently prized around the world. The deepest and purest is table salt which is used by most restaurants in Peru, especially the gourmet ones.
All salt is harvested and bagged by hand.
This was a perfect way to end our tour of The Sacred Valley.
Our view as we started walking down to the salt ponds
The place is massive.
You can see a couple of the little channels going down the hill
This is one of the small channels going into the ponds
You can see the salt build-up
Victor, our guide, giving us some info on the process
Aquas Calientes - AKA Machu Picchu Pueblo 05/17/2017 to 05/18/2017
Aquas Calientes - means hot water in Spanish - is a little town at the base of the road up to Machu Picchu. It was nothing more than a little railroad tent town until the 1980's
Once Shining Path was eliminated and terrorism was under control tourism blossomed in Peru, everyone wanting to come see MP. So, this quiet little town suddenly had a huge influx of tourists, and it had to grow quickly to even try to keep up. As you will see from the shots of the town, there is a lot of chaos and also a lot of building.
You would be amazed at how efficient they are at moving people up the mountain to MP. Disney World can't hold a candle to these guys. We were blown away.
Now I had read some rather disparaging things about Aquas Caliente - like scalping, padding bills, rude - but our experience was great. The people were fun, friendly and accommodating. Our only regret is not spending another day here just to brows around and sit in a few more cafes.
Arriving in Aquas Caliente - you get off the train and have to go through the market. A bit disorienting
I love the trans cans in Peru. Some have panther heads, these are frongs
Two main streets straddle the river. And the bridges are something else
Please not the bridge
Construction is constant. Probably more hotels, shops
Sitting in a cafe having coffee while the Hiram Bingham train whizzes past
Just wandering streets
So on our second day we wanted to get to MP early so hit the line at 7:00am. Guess we weren't alone in that thought.
Oh yes. The dogs. Peru is full of dogs and they pay no attention to the hundreds of people standing in line
George took a shot of the line behind us. We figured we were about a quarter mile up from the bus loading when we joined.
One of the buses.
These bus drivers are fearless
In less than 30 minutes we were loaded and on our way back up to MP
Although it is not a big town there are lots of little streets going up
A statue of Pachacuti
The Urubamba River
It flows fast, and if you look at the little blue dot in the lower right you will see that is a person.
I believe those buildings are the part of the market
I can only imagine how full this river must get in the rainy season
Machu Picchu - The Postcard View 05/17/2017 to 05/18/2017
Machu Picchu. It is everything you can imagine and much more.
OK, Brian says I liked MP so much because I finally found something almost as old as me. Gotta love that kid.
Built around 1450 or so by the great Pachacuti and was handed down to his family members. The most recent research points to it as a personal estate of the emperor as well as a religious site.
As you can imagine we took a few thousand pictures in our zeal but I've weeded through them and I'll only dump a few hundred on you. To try to make this easier I'm breaking them up into various sections.
This is the Postcard View - that famous angle on all the post cards that shows some of the ruins and Huayna Picchu in the background. The Temple of the moon is on top of Huayna Picchu and you can take a guided hike up to it.
Gotta go back one day before I'm too old.
We even got up here before 8am to get some nice shots but lots of others did as well
You can see the terraces going down the left side
Lots of the buildings
And that nice mountain in the background is Huayna Picchu
The Temple of the Moon is on Huayna Picchu and you can take a hike up there
If you look closely you can see the walls of the Temple of the Moon
You can see people up there.
I borrowed this picture of people coming down one section of stairs on Huayna Picchu. It can get worse.
Machu Picchu - Temples, Condors, Walls and More 05/17/2017 to 05/18/2017
After the initial Postcard shots, which you need to work to get because it requires hiking up past the House of the Guardian, we headed back down to start walking around.
The city was divided into areas - the eastern area was probably residential and business. The western side was for religious and nobility.
I got a little confused occasionally because you do go up, down, over, across, up, down, around, and... well you get the idea.
Just a shot of some of the structures
Note the different types of rock used in the wall
Lots of terracing.
The large clean cut stones indicate a religious building or one for nobility
The Condor Temple. The stone resembles the head of a condor, one of the sacred 3 animals
I added this just so you can admire the masonry.
They have thatched a few of the buildings just so we have an idea of what they looked like
The Inca often incorporated natural rock formations in their builds
The Palace of the Princess - so named by Hiram. No idea what the Inca called it.
The Sacred Rock. It was sculpted to mirror the mountains behind it.
The funerary Stone. It may have been used for animal sacrifices, or mummification. No one is quite sure
The Temple of the Sun is the round structure
During the June solstice the rising sun shines directly into one of the temple windows, and this indicates an alignment between the window, rock and solstice sun.
The rock inside may have been an altar.
It is rather imposing
Looking out to the Sacred Plaza
Notice the workmen - they are constantly working on the site to keep it in good shape. It is slow and often tedious but they are dedicated
Yes, more stairs. You do get to do lots and lots of stairs.
The Intihuatana - Spanish version of Quechua Intiwatana meaning "place to tie up the sun"
Machu Picchu - 3 Windows, Sinking Wall, Gate and Industry 05/17/2017 to 05/18/2017
On to more shots of ruins! Yes I know you are beginning to think it all looks alike - and it kinda does - but it is really different I swear it is.
I am combining a few things here - more interesting structures and a lot of terraces. The terracing just blows me away. They did it all by hand. They started at the bottom and worked their way up, leveling and reinforcing as they went.
When you realize how steep these mountain sides are it makes your skin crawl.
Their management of water kept crops growing, stopped soil erosion, and provided a stable base for these massive structures.
Looking up at The Temple of the 3 Windows.
There are also 3 pillars in front
Note the curved corner stone. That protects from earthquakes
3 is a number that repeats in Incan lore. Originally there may have been 5 windows. They align with the summer solstice
Looking out toward the Sacred Plaza
Those stairs lead up to the spot where the Intihuatana sits.
Notice workmen on the wall. Often they are carefully removing the vegetation that grows inbetween the stones
This is the wall of the Main Temple. It was sinking even when Hiram Bingham saw it.
The Main Gate leading into the urban section
The urban section
Terraces
Just can not say enough about these feats of engineering
Hopefully you get the feeling for how precarious this must have been to dig
Most terraces were for farming but some were to stem erosion
More terraces. And those walls are at least 6 feet high
Machu Picchu - Inca Bridge 05/17/2017 to 05/18/2017
We did a little side hike to the Inca Bridge
Yes, you had to go up more stairs to get to the entrance where you had to sign in with your name and time of entry.
The rest of the hike was pretty flat, just a few stairs and a little vertical but not hard at all.
There are some places where the trail is rather narrow with no guard rails or ropes, so if you have an issue with heights this might not be for you.
As with everything else here we found it pretty amazing. The work that went into making the wall support had to be brutal, and they even added Inca Steps just in case.
There is a gate so you can not actually try to cross the bridge.
Trying to give you some idea of the scope of that cliff, but our camera is not up to the task
They built the wall, drainage and added Inca steps down the face of the wall
Apparently they had very good balance and no fear of heights
Some shots of the path
George - every now and then I get a pic of him
Peering over the edge at the valley below
The valley below
Some parts are wider than others
Quite a few people ended their hike at that platform and did not come down further.
Machu Picchu - Animals - Us and Others 05/17/2017 to 05/18/2017
Not sure if I mentioned the llamas. No? Well there are llamas here.
The llamas graze on the terraces which is a nice arrangement for both their owners and the site. Local color and free grounds keeping.
The other group is US! We have proof we were there. George's cousins Livia and Peter were our companions on this trek and they were real troopers - March or Die being our motto.
Would we go back to Peru? You bet we would.
George & I in our Postcard pose
Later - just happened to be as we were leaving
Peter & Livia
The rogues gallery
A chinchilla. Cute little thing
I was coming down the steps as this guys was coming up.
So I took his picture. Neat how he stays on his side.
And he goes his merry way
Mamma and baby
Great Banana Spider
It is not a good picture of anything but it shows how comfortable they are with all the people. Unless you harass them and then they will kick you.